Quebec City, the provincial capital of Quebec, is a unique and charming destination that showcases the spirit of provincialism. Despite its complex history of French and British influence, Quebec City has managed to carve out its own distinct identity, proudly tending to its own garden.
Within the Old Town walls and nestled between the St. Lawrence River, Quebec City exudes an undeniable charm. Despite harsh winter temperatures that persist well into March, Quebec celebrates with a lively carnival, showcasing its ability to make the best of any situation.
For those seeking a retro lifestyle, Quebec City is an ideal choice. You can enjoy a drink, smoke indoors, don fur attire, and savor wild game dishes at all hours. This blend of rustic vigor and refined sophistication is evident in the city's exceptional restaurants. A new paragraph would be inserted here: "To truly immerse yourself in this retro vibe, consider staying in one of the city's many fabulous accommodations. From luxurious suites to chic boutique inns, you are sure to find a hotel that embodies Quebec City's unique blend of old-world aesthetic and modern-day comforts." The article then continues: These establishments, along with the city's abundance of art galleries, further exemplify the perfect blend of rustic and refined that Quebec City so elegantly displays.
While the city's European influence is undeniable, there is no place quite like Quebec City in Europe, nor is there anything comparable in North America. Its unique character and ambiance make it a destination worth celebrating.
So, whether you're interested in exploring a distinct provincial culture or indulging in a blend of European refinement and North American charm, Quebec City is a must-visit destination. Experience its timeless allure and discover why it stands apart from any other place on the continent.
Friday
4 p.m. 1) Cuban Cigars It's too late in the day to try the absurdly dangerous sport of ice canoeing, so head instead to the first-floor Bar St.-Laurent at the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac (1, rue des Carrières; 418-692-3861) for Champagne. The semicircular room has wonderful views of the St. Lawrence. The château, as it is called (it's that enormous castle-like building, built as a grand hotel for the Canadian Pacific Railway) is always pricey, with a glass of Laurent-Perrier about $20 in United States currency. But luxury can be like that. The assiette of smoked fish ($13) makes a good snack. Cuban cigars are for sale, but the humidor doesn't keep them at the proper humidity. Buy them in advance at Société Cigare (575, Grande Allée; 418-647-2000), just outside the Old Town walls. Its walk-in humidor is thoughtfully stocked. It is also a bar (dark wood, low lights, single malts), so it's open most of the time.
8 p.m. 2) Game for Dinner If you're craving wild game -- and you should be -- take a cab to Le Vieux Presbytère (1247, avenue Msgr. D'Esgly, St.-Pierre; 418-828-9723), shown above right, a country inn on the Île d'Orléans, 20 minutes by car from the Frontenac. Tucked between two churches, as you might expect of a former presbytery that was built in the mid-18th century, the restaurant's specialty is "trilogie de gibiers" ($26), namely ostrich, local guinea hen and caribou. The ostrich was once raised next door, where bison have also been fattened up.
Saturday
10 a.m. 3) Plains of Abraham Rise late; you'll need your rest to get under way on skis at the Plains of Abraham. The plains form an extensive, undulating rectangle on the heights above the St. Lawrence, just west of the Frontenac. The Friends of the Plains of Abraham, from its office in the Discovery Pavilion (835, avenue Wilfrid-Laurier), offers top-quality skis for either two or five hours, starting at 10 a.m., at $12 for an adult for two hours or $24 for five. You will be schussing around the occasional fortification -- this is where James Wolfe defeated Louis-Joseph de Montcalm in 1759, the battle that set in motion the decline of French power in North America. Today it is a playground, and you'll ski past several hills where children shriek happily from their toboggans. (For ski conditions, 418-648-4212; ski rentals, 418-648-2586; adult lessons are available at 10:30 a.m. on Sundays, 418-649-6476).
Explore Quebec City's unique attractions and indulge in local delicacies at the year-round farmers' market, Marché du Vieux-Port. While you may not find an abundance of vegetables, be sure to visit Les Saucisses du Marché for their mouthwatering and inventive sausages, like the Cajun-grape flavor, served with sauerkraut and a variety of mustards. Other culinary treasures await, including smoked fish, local cheeses, ciders, meat pies, quiches, and the intriguing spruce beer, said to have been favored by George Washington for its medicinal properties. Experience a taste from the past and discover why it was a staple for early settlers.
Delve into the fascinating world of Inuit art at the Musée d'art Inuit Brousseau, housed in a museum envisioned by Raymond Brousseau. This captivating collection showcases predominantly carvings from the Inuit community, with its popularity soaring after being introduced to a wider audience at the 1967 World's Fair in Montreal. Inuit artists have since developed distinct and highly individualistic styles, making their artwork a thriving enterprise. For a chance to own a piece of Inuit craftsmanship, visit the Galerie Brousseau et Brousseau, conveniently located next door, where you can browse and purchase exquisite Inuit carvings.
During the winter evenings in Quebec City, there are plenty of activities to keep you entertained. At 5 p.m., why not try ice skating at Place d'Youville, just outside the Old Town? Rent a pair of skates and glide across the ice to the sound of music, which continues until 10 p.m. If you're feeling more daring, head to the toboggan run behind the Frontenac. Grab a wooden toboggan and ascend the long, icy ramp. As you reach the top and turn around, prepare for an adrenaline-fueled descent at high speeds!
As the evening progresses and the sun begins to set, take a leisurely stroll along the ramparts of the Old Town. From here, you can enjoy a breathtaking view of the St. Lawrence River, adorned with magnificent ice floes. Once you descend the ramparts, make your way to Belley Tavern for a refreshing drink. This cozy spot not only offers a game of bar pool but also showcases local expressionist works on its dark walls. Alternatively, indulge in Belgian beer at Môss, a charming "bistro belge" with an extensive selection of brews, including several on tap. Don't miss out on their specialty: mussels prepared in various delicious ways.
Embrace the winter wonderland of Quebec City and make the most of your evenings. Whether you choose to skate, toboggan, or embark on a scenic walk, there's an adventure waiting for you!
8 p.m. 8) A Tasting Menu Most Québécois speak English, but French, even bad French, goes over well. So, once fortified against the night cold, ask for directions to the Auberge Saint-Antoine (8, rue St.-Antoine; 418-692-2211). The hotel's restaurant, Panache, opened last July and quickly became a point of reference for Quebec City's haute cuisine. Start off with Champagne cocktails, then on to an amuse-bouche and the tasting menu ($115), which moves at a leisurely pace from an extraordinary cube of gravlax through game-fowl consommé, a partridge with truffled cabbage and juniper berry, roast Quebec lamb, a local cheese joined by a salad of grapes and fig and six very different chocolates for dessert. It is easy to drag this out -- at fireside, in a space that is like a rustic loft with banquettes -- for three hours or more. After dinner, make your way through the narrow, snowy streets to admire the restored buildings of the Place-Royal at your leisure.
Sunday
9 a.m. 9) Breakfast Beans Ease up from the haute bourgeois splendors of last night's dinner with breakfast at the Buffet de l'Antiquaire (95, rue St.-Paul; 418-692-2661). It is a very good, very local diner that serves sublime baked beans with its egg breakfasts (the special, which also gives you sausage, bacon, toast and potatoes, is $6) and lovely homemade strawberry jam with vast crepes ($4).
10 a.m. 10) Stroll and Shop The rue St.-Paul, above, is lined with easygoing antique shops and art galleries, but if you still can't find the right present to take home, take the first left up into the Old Town and head for Artisans du Bas-Canada (30, côte de la Fabrique; 418-692-2109), which has a terrific selection of fur hats as well as an abundance of Québécois tchotchkes.
THE BASICS Visiting Quebec
When visiting Quebec City, Old Town is a must-visit destination located just a short 30-minute drive from Jean Lesage International Airport. If you're looking for a modern and spacious hotel that offers a refreshing break from the traditional aesthetic of the Old Town, the Hotel Dominion 1912 is the perfect choice. Situated in a converted fruit warehouse, this airy hotel boasts 60 light-filled rooms and stunning river views, with prices ranging from $140 to $250 per night. If you prefer a more classic and luxurious experience, look no further than the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. This iconic 618-room hotel sets the gold standard for grand accommodations in Quebec City. With its beautiful river and city views, a stay here offers a truly unforgettable experience. Prices for river views start at $245, while city views are available from $200 per night. If you're in search of a smaller, more intimate option, Hotel Belley is a delightful choice. Located in the artistic Lower Town area, this charming hotel features eight simple yet comfortable rooms adorned with original art. Conveniently situated near antiques shops and the farmers' market, Hotel Belley is a great base for exploring the local surroundings. Rates for rooms here range from $55 to $120 per night. Please note that all rates mentioned may increase during the carnival period (today to Feb. 13), and making reservations in advance is highly recommended.